Supply lines, pumps, fixtures, drains and hidden leaks
RV Plumbing Repair
Water under the sink, a pump that will not stop cycling, a wet floor with no obvious source. We find the leak and fix it before it ruins the floor.
RV Plumbing Repair detailsNo hot water, leaks, bypass and control faults
Mobile RV Water Heater Repair in Massachusetts & RI
No hot water, a leaking tank, or a heater that only works on one mode. We diagnose elements, thermostats, boards, igniters and bypass valves and repair or replace what failed.
Mobile service from New Bedford across South Coast MA, Plymouth County, the Upper Cape and nearby RI. $175 per hour · $3.50 per mile from New Bedford, one way ($50 minimum).
RV water heaters are simple appliances that fail for a short list of reasons: a burned element, a tripped or failed thermostat, a failed board or igniter, a corroded anode and tank, or a bypass valve left in the wrong position after winterization. We test it at the RV and fix it.
When the tank itself is leaking we help you decide between a replacement heater and a tankless upgrade.
Problems we fix
- No hot water on electric, gas or both
- Water leaking from the heater, relief valve or fittings
- Heater trips the breaker or blows a fuse
- Bypass valve confusion after winterization
- Rusty water or a failed anode rod
What the work includes
- Electrical and control diagnosis: element, thermostat, ECO, board, igniter
- Leak-source inspection at tank, fittings and relief valve
- Element, thermostat, board and anode replacement
- Bypass and plumbing correction
- Full heater replacement or tankless conversion when the tank has failed
Good to know
Water heater service covers the appliance, its water connections and its controls, and our diagnosis checks the gas and electric supply at the heater. Most no-hot-water calls are fixed in one visit.
Suburban versus Dometic and Atwood: what fails
Suburban heaters use a porcelain-lined steel tank protected by a magnesium anode rod that doubles as the drain plug; when the anode is consumed the tank corrodes and eventually weeps. Dometic and Atwood heaters use an aluminum tank with no anode and a plastic drain plug, and owners are routinely sold parts for the wrong design. Across both brands the common failures are a burned-out 120-volt element, a tripped or failed thermostat or high-limit switch, a failed control board or igniter on the propane side, a thermocouple or gas valve on pilot models, a weeping relief valve or fitting, and a bypass valve left in the wrong position after winterization.
No hot water: how we work through it
We check the bypass valves first, because the most common no-hot-water call in April is a heater still in winterize mode. Then the electric side: element resistance, thermostat and high-limit, and the breaker, since a shorted element trips it. Then the propane side: igniter spark, board, gas valve and regulator pressure under load, and a burner tube cleared of spiders. We service the appliance, its water connections, its controls and its propane supply, so a heater that works on electric but not gas gets fixed in the same visit. Most element, thermostat and igniter repairs are about an hour.
Leaks: relief valve, fitting or tank
A relief valve that drips while the heater is heating is usually normal expansion, cured by restoring the air gap at the top of the tank. A relief valve that drips constantly is a bad valve. Water from a fitting is a fitting. Water from the tank body or around the drain plug on a Suburban means the anode was neglected and the tank is done; that is a replacement, not a repair.
Repair, replace or go tankless
Repair when the tank is sound and the heater is under about ten years old. Replace when the tank leaks or the repair approaches half the cost of a new unit. When you replace, an on-demand tankless heater is worth a conversation: endless hot water and less weight, against flow-dependent temperature, a cold slug between uses and more care in freezing weather. For weekend campers a straight replacement is often the smarter money; for full-timers tankless can be worth it. We quote both.
What it costs
Water heater repairs are $175 per hour plus parts and travel. Element and thermostat repairs are typically an hour; full replacements are quoted.
Full rates →Common questions about RV water heater repair
Why do I have no hot water in my RV?
Check the bypass valve first; it is often left in bypass after winterization. If the valve is right, the element, thermostat, ECO or board has usually failed. We test each one.
Is my water heater leaking or is it the relief valve?
A relief valve that drips when heating is often normal expansion; a tank that weeps constantly is a failed tank. We inspect and tell you which.
Should I replace the anode rod?
Suburban heaters have a steel tank protected by an anode rod that should be checked yearly and replaced when heavily consumed. We check it during service.
Can you install a tankless water heater in my RV?
Yes. When a tank heater fails, a tankless unit is often a good upgrade. We quote both options.
Why do I have hot water on electric but not gas, or the other way around?
Because the two modes use separate components. Electric-only failure points to the element, thermostat or high-limit; gas-only failure points to the igniter, board, gas valve or propane supply. We test each and fix the failed side.
Why is my RV water heater leaking from the bottom?
A drip from the relief valve during heating can be normal expansion. Water from the tank body or the drain plug area usually means a corroded tank or a failed anode plug seal. We inspect and tell you which.
How often should the anode rod be replaced?
Check it every season and replace it when more than about three quarters is consumed. Dometic and Atwood aluminum tanks do not use one.
Why does my hot water smell like sulfur?
Usually bacteria reacting with the anode or sediment in the tank. Flushing the tank and replacing the anode fixes it in most cases.
Can you install a tankless water heater in my RV?
Yes. When a tank heater fails, a tankless unit is often a good upgrade. We quote both options and tell you which fits how you camp.
Related services
Protect the plumbing before the first freeze
RV Winterization & De-Winterization
A New England freeze will split fittings, crack the water heater and destroy the pump. We winterize the RV where it is parked and bring it back to life in spring.
RV Winterization detailsNo heat, blower runs, short cycling
RV Furnace Repair
Furnace blows cold, clicks and shuts down, or does nothing at all. We diagnose the ignition sequence, controls, sail switch, limit and board and fix it at your RV.
RV Furnace Repair detailsRead before you call
RV Water Heater Repair near you
We provide RV water heater repair throughout our service area, including:
New Bedford, MAAbout 2 miles from our New Bedford baseDartmouth, MAAbout 3 miles from our New Bedford baseFairhaven, MAAbout 3 miles from our New Bedford baseWestport, MAAbout 11 miles from our New Bedford baseFall River, MAAbout 16 miles from our New Bedford baseWareham, MAAbout 19 miles from our New Bedford basePlymouth, MAAbout 34 miles from our New Bedford baseCarver, MAAbout 28 miles from our New Bedford baseMiddleborough, MAAbout 23 miles from our New Bedford baseBourne, MAAbout 28 miles from our New Bedford base