No heat, blower runs, short cycling
Furnace blows cold, clicks and shuts down, or does nothing at all. We diagnose the ignition sequence, controls, sail switch, limit and board and fix it at your RV.
Mobile service from New Bedford across South Coast MA, Plymouth County, the Upper Cape and nearby RI. $175 per hour · $3.50 per mile from New Bedford, one way ($50 minimum).
RV furnaces fail in a predictable sequence and each step tells us something: thermostat call, blower start, sail switch, limit switch, board, igniter. We test the sequence, identify the failed component, and replace it. Most no-heat calls are a sail switch, a board or a dirty burner assembly.
Fall is the time to test the furnace, not the first cold night at the campground.
Furnace service covers the appliance and its controls, and our diagnosis checks the gas and 12-volt supply at the furnace. If the furnace is fine and the problem is upstream, we tell you that too.
When the thermostat calls for heat, the control board waits a moment and starts the blower. Airflow closes the sail switch, the limit switch confirms the furnace is not overheated, and the board opens the gas valve and fires the igniter. A flame sensor has to prove flame within a few seconds or the board shuts the gas and tries again; three failed tries and it locks out. Each step is a common failure: a thermostat or 12-volt supply problem, a blower that is slow or seized, a sail switch stuck with dust or a spider web, a limit switch, a failed board, a cracked igniter electrode, or no propane reaching the burner. Knowing the sequence is why we can usually tell you what is wrong within the first half hour.
Nothing happens at all: thermostat, fuse, 12-volt feed or board. Blower runs but never lights: sail switch, low voltage, propane supply or regulator, gas valve, igniter or board. Lights and then dies: flame sensor, a poor ground, low gas pressure or a dirty burner. Short-cycling: a blocked return, closed ducts or a tripping limit switch. Soot, odor or a yellow flame: burner or heat exchanger trouble, which means stop using it until it is inspected.
Furnaces draw a lot of 12-volt power, and below roughly ten and a half volts the blower slows, the sail switch will not close and ignition fails. We check the battery, the converter and the connections under load before condemning any part. On the propane side we check regulator output pressure with a manometer under load, leak-test the system, and look at regulator age and condition, because a tired regulator will run a stove fine and starve a furnace. We service the appliance and its propane supply together, so you do not need two companies to fix one furnace.
Suburban NT and SF series, Dometic and Atwood Hydro Flame, and the newer Furrion and Everest units are what we see in nearly every RV, and we carry the common sail switches, limit switches, igniters and boards for them. A furnace needs annual attention in New England: burner and blower wheels cleaned, intake and exhaust checked for mud daubers and spider webs, ducts and returns checked for stored gear blocking them, and the propane and carbon monoxide detectors tested before fall camping. Most furnace repairs are finished in one visit of one to two hours plus the part. When the heat exchanger is cracked or the unit is past fifteen to twenty years and the repair approaches half the cost of new, we tell you to replace it.
Furnace diagnostics are $175 per hour plus parts and travel. Most repairs are one to two hours plus the part.
Full rates →The blower is running but the burner never lit. Common causes are a stuck sail switch, a failed igniter or board, low voltage, or a supply problem. We test each in order.
Yes. These two brands are in nearly every RV and we carry common parts for both.
Test it in fall while the RV is still in use. If it fails, we fix it before the RV sits all winter and before spring rush.
The igniter is sparking but the burner is not lighting or not staying lit. Common causes are a dirty or misaligned electrode, a weak igniter, a gas valve not opening, or a propane supply or regulator problem. We diagnose the whole path, appliance and supply.
The furnace never lit or locked out after three tries. Check the propane and the battery voltage first; if both are fine, it is usually the sail switch, igniter or board.
Yes, but a weak battery is a common cause of furnace faults because the blower and board need stable 12-volt power. We check voltage under load as part of every furnace diagnostic.
No. Soot, odor or a yellow flame can mean a burner or heat exchanger problem and a carbon monoxide risk. Shut it off and have it inspected.
Propane tank valve open and not empty, battery charged, thermostat set above room temperature, exhaust vent clear of nests, and cycle the thermostat off and on to clear a lockout. If it still will not run, call us.
No hot water, leaks, bypass and control faults
No hot water, a leaking tank, or a heater that only works on one mode. We diagnose elements, thermostats, boards, igniters and bypass valves and repair or replace what failed.
RV Water Heater Repair detailsProtect the plumbing before the first freeze
A New England freeze will split fittings, crack the water heater and destroy the pump. We winterize the RV where it is parked and bring it back to life in spring.
RV Winterization detailsNot cooling, fault codes, works on one mode
Fridge running but warm, fault codes, or cooling on one power source only. We diagnose the controls, thermistor, boards, ventilation and cooling unit and tell you straight whether it is worth fixing.
RV Refrigerator Repair detailsWe provide RV furnace repair throughout our service area, including:
Ready when you are
Call or text with the year, make, model and where the RV sits. Send photos if you have them. You'll talk to the technician, not a call center.