Aged sealant is the number-one cause of RV roof leaks. We reseal every seam, vent, skylight, edge and penetration with the right product for your roof, before water gets in.
Mobile service from New Bedford across South Coast MA, Plymouth County, the Upper Cape and nearby RI. $175 per hour · $3.50 per mile from New Bedford, one way ($50 minimum).
Every RV roof has dozens of sealed joints, and every one of them is a future leak. Sun, freeze-thaw cycles and road flex crack the sealant, and water gets under it long before anything shows inside. A proper reseal every few years is the cheapest roof insurance you can buy.
A reseal from us is not a quick bead of caulk. We clean and prep every joint, then apply sealant that is compatible with your membrane, in the right profile, on every seam, flange and edge. Then we photograph the finished work so you have a record.
Problems we fix
Cracked, separated, chalky or peeling lap sealant
Open seams around roof vents, skylights, antennas and solar mounts
Failed front and rear cap transitions
Roof-edge and termination-bar sealant that has let go
Preventive maintenance on a roof that is 3 to 5 years past its last reseal
Getting ahead of New England winter before snow and ice sit on the roof
What the work includes
Roof walk-through and sealant condition assessment with photos
Cleaning and preparation of every joint being resealed
Self-leveling and non-sag sealants applied to seams, penetrations, transitions and edges
Inspection of vents, domes and flanges while we are up there
Completion photos and notes on anything that needs a larger repair
Good to know
A reseal protects the joints. It does not fix rotten decking or dry out existing water damage. If we find soft spots during a reseal, we show you and explain the repair options before going further.
What actually fails on an RV roof
RV manufacturers seal seams and penetrations with self-leveling lap sealant, and that sealant has a service life of a few years in New England, not the life of the RV. UV breaks down the surface, it shrinks and pulls away from the membrane or the flange, and hairline cracks open along the edges of every bead. Water sits in those cracks, freezes, and the crack becomes a gap. The membrane underneath is usually fine; the joint is what failed.
The most common failure points we reseal, in order: roof vent and fan flanges, bathroom skylight flanges, the air conditioner base, the front and rear cap seams, antenna and solar mounts, the roof-edge termination bar, and the screw heads along the ladder and awning brackets.
The right sealant for the right joint
Horizontal joints on the roof get self-leveling lap sealant, which flows into the seam and caps it as one continuous bead. Vertical joints, front and rear caps, side moldings and anything on a wall get a non-sag sealant that stays where it is put. Long seams and cracks can be reinforced with roof-grade seam tape. And every product has to match the membrane: EPDM and TPO take different lap sealants, and TPO often wants a primer first; fiberglass and aluminum roofs take products rated for them. Household silicone is the wrong answer on every RV roof, because nothing will bond to it later.
Our reseal process
A reseal that lasts starts with prep. We walk the roof and mark every joint that needs attention, wash and degrease the seams and flanges, and let them dry. Then we apply sealant matched to your roof type, worked into each joint and extended past the existing bead so it self-levels into one continuous cap over seams, screw heads and flanges. Vertical joints get non-sag product, tooled smooth. Every roof accessory gets inspected while we are up there, cracked vent lids and skylight domes are flagged, and you get completion photos showing every joint that was treated. Most 25 to 35-foot RVs are a half day; larger fifth wheels and Class A coaches with many roof accessories can run a full day.
How often to reseal in New England
Inspect every spring and fall. Plan on a full reseal every two to four years, sooner if the RV lives under trees, near the coast or uncovered through winter. Lap sealant skins over in hours, is rain-safe in about a day and fully cures in two to three days, and it needs temperatures above roughly fifty degrees, which is why fall reseals fill up fast on the South Coast. If you are resealing every two years and tired of it, our premium-grade silicone roof coating covers the entire roof and every joint with one seamless membrane and takes resealing off your calendar.
What it costs
Reseals are billed at $175 per hour plus materials and travel. Most travel trailers and fifth wheels are a half-day job; we confirm the estimate at the RV before starting.
Inspect every spring and fall and plan on resealing every 2 to 4 years in New England. Roofs that live outside year-round, under trees or near the coast need it more often.
Is resealing the same as coating the roof?
No. Resealing treats the seams and penetrations where leaks start. A roof coating covers the entire membrane surface. If your roof is aging everywhere, see our premium-grade silicone roof coating page.
Can I just run a bead of caulk over the seams myself?
Hardware-store caulk is the wrong product for an RV roof and it is why so many roofs leak anyway. RV roof sealants are formulated for the membrane, stay flexible and self-level into the joint. We use the right product, prepped properly, on every joint.
How long does a reseal take?
Most 25 to 35-foot RVs take a half day. Larger fifth wheels and Class A coaches with many roof accessories can take a full day.
Do you reseal RVs in storage lots?
Yes, as long as we can safely reach the roof. Many customers have us reseal in fall before the RV goes into storage.
What sealant do you use on RV roofs?
Self-leveling and non-sag RV roof sealants rated for the membrane you have. EPDM, TPO and fiberglass each take different products; the wrong sealant peels within a season.
Can you reseal my roof while it is at a seasonal campground?
Yes. Reseals at seasonal sites in Wareham, Carver, Plymouth, Westport and the Upper Cape are a normal part of our route. Tell us the campground and site number.
Should I reseal before winter or after?
Before. Snow and ice sitting on open seams all winter is how a small crack becomes wet decking by spring. Book a fall reseal with your winterization and cover both in one visit.
Do I need a reseal if nothing is leaking yet?
If the sealant is cracked, chalky or pulling away from the flanges, yes. Sealant fails long before water shows up inside, and the reseal costs a fraction of the ceiling repair.
Will you check the whole roof or just the spot I point to?
The whole roof. A single leaking vent is almost never the only joint at the end of its life, and you are paying for the trip either way.
Related services
Leaks, membrane puncture repairs, tree damage and failed roof edges
We come to your RV, find where the water is actually getting in, and fix the roof properly: membrane repairs, penetrations, transitions, edges and damaged decking.
Water does not only come through the roof. Corner moldings, window frames, doors, lights and trim inserts all leak when their seals fail. We find the path and close it.
A cracked vent lid or bathroom skylight is an open door for water. We replace vents, fans, skylight domes and the sealing around them, and check the decking underneath.