Why RV roofs leak in Massachusetts and Rhode Island
RV roofs here take a beating that roofs in Arizona never see. Summer sun cooks the sealant, fall drops pine needles and acorns that hold water against the seams, and then the roof freezes and thaws forty or fifty times between December and March. Every freeze cycle opens the cracks a little wider. Add salt air along the coast from Westport to Aquidneck Island and you have some of the shortest sealant life in the country.
The result is predictable: most of the roof leaks we repair are at a seam, a vent flange, a front or rear cap transition or a roof-edge termination bar, not in the middle of the membrane. That matters because it means most leaks are repairable without replacing the roof, if they are caught before the decking rots.
EPDM, TPO, fiberglass or aluminum: why it matters
The four common RV roof materials fail differently and are repaired with different products. EPDM rubber is matte, slightly chalky and stretchy, and it is damaged by petroleum solvents; TPO is glossier, stiffer and heat-weldable; fiberglass is a rigid gelcoat that spider-cracks at stress points and is repaired with resin and marine-grade sealants; aluminum roofs on older units leak at seams and fasteners. The single most common reason a previous repair failed is that someone used a product made for a different roof. We identify the membrane before we open a tube of anything.
RV roof repair for rotted wood and soft decking
When you step on an RV roof and it gives, the plywood or OSB decking under the membrane has been wet long enough to rot. This is the repair most owners are afraid of, and it is more routine than it sounds. We cut the membrane back past the soft area, remove the rotted wood down to solid framing, check the rafters and the insulation, replace the decking with new exterior-grade plywood, and close the roof with new membrane bonded to the surrounding roof. On a small area this is a one-day job. When the rot has spread the length of the roof, that is the line where an RV roof replacement makes more sense than an RV roof repair, and we tell you which side of the line you are on before we start.
Two things matter with rotted wood: catching it early, and fixing the leak that caused it in the same visit. Replacing decking under a seam that is still open is a waste of your money, so every rotted-wood repair we do starts with the leak.
Camper roof repair, motorhome roof repair, travel trailers and fifth wheels
Camper, trailer, fifth wheel, motorhome or RV: we repair the roof on all of them. Travel trailer and camper roofs are usually EPDM or TPO rubber over thin decking, so tears, punctures and rotted wood are the common repairs. Motorhome roofs on Class A and Class C coaches are more often fiberglass, where the work is cracked gelcoat, failed cap seams and air-conditioner gaskets. Fifth wheels take the most abuse at the front cap. Whatever you call it, the repair is matched to the roof material, done at your site, and photographed when it is finished.
How we find the real leak
The ceiling stain is downstream of the leak, sometimes by ten feet. We start on the roof, upstream of the stain, and inspect every seam, penetration and edge in that path: vents, skylights, the air conditioner gasket, antenna and solar mounts, ladder brackets, the cap seams and the edge trim. We check the decking for soft spots by hand and, when needed, map the wet area from inside with a moisture meter. When the source is not obvious we run a controlled water test, one zone at a time, with someone watching inside. Then we photograph the failure so you can see exactly what we found before we quote the fix.
Repair, reseal, coat or replace?
A single failed seam, a puncture or a torn patch of membrane over sound decking is a localized repair, usually finished in one visit. Sealant failing in several places on a roof that is otherwise sound is a full reseal. A roof that is sound but aging everywhere, chalking and hairline-cracking, is a candidate for our premium-grade silicone roof coating, which covers every seam and penetration as one membrane. Widespread soft decking, water under the membrane or a roof torn open by a tree is a replacement, and when the cause was sudden damage it is usually an insurance claim. We tell you which one you have, with photos, and we do not sell a replacement when a repair solves it.
What the visit looks like
Most roof-leak visits run two to four hours: inspection and water test, the repair itself, a final water check on the repaired area, and photos of the finished work for your records. Repairs that involve cutting out wet decking take longer and are quoted after we see how far the water traveled. Sealants need dry weather and temperatures above roughly fifty degrees to cure properly, so on the South Coast permanent roof work runs from April into November; in winter we stop the water with temporary weatherproofing and schedule the permanent repair.