Supply lines, pumps, fixtures, drains and hidden leaks
Water under the sink, a pump that will not stop cycling, a wet floor with no obvious source. We find the leak and fix it before it ruins the floor.
Mobile service from New Bedford across South Coast MA, Plymouth County, the Upper Cape and nearby RI. $175 per hour · $3.50 per mile from New Bedford, one way ($50 minimum).
RV plumbing lives in a box that bounces down the highway and freezes every winter. Fittings loosen, PEX cracks, pumps wear out, and a small drip behind a cabinet wall becomes a soft floor. We come to the RV, pressure-test the system, and repair the actual failure.
We carry common fittings, valves and pump parts so most repairs are finished in one visit.
If water is actively leaking, shut off the pump and city water and open a faucet to relieve pressure. Take a couple of photos so they are ready when you call.
The fresh-water side of an RV is a city-water inlet with a check valve, a pressure regulator, a fresh tank, a 12-volt demand pump with a strainer, PEX line with crimp or push fittings, a water heater with a bypass valve set, faucets, shower, toilet and low-point drains. The waste side is P-traps, gray and black tanks, gate valves and a vent stack. Failures cluster in the same places: fittings behind the kitchen sink and under the bathroom vanity that loosen on the highway, the pump head and its internal check valve, the city-inlet check valve, the toilet fill valve and vacuum breaker, faucet cartridges, the water heater bypass valves and drain plug, and gate valves that no longer seal.
We pressurize the system on the pump and listen: a pump that cycles with every fixture closed is losing pressure somewhere. We hold the system under pressure, isolate sections at the valves and fittings, and use dye, paper towels and a camera to find the wet fitting behind cabinets and in the underbelly. Then we open the smallest access needed, repair or replace the fitting with the correct part for your line type, and pressure-test again so you are not chasing a second leak a week later. When water has already damaged the floor or cabinet base, we tell you what we found and what a repair would involve.
Every April we repair the same list on RVs that skipped or rushed winterization: split pump heads, cracked toilet valves and check valves, blown faucet cartridges, split PEX runs in the floor, cracked low-point drains and water-heater tanks weeping from a split. Freeze damage rarely means one leak; we find and fix every split, pressure-test the whole system, and winterize the RV properly in the fall so it does not happen again.
We carry common PEX line and fittings, valves, pump parts and fixtures so most plumbing repairs are finished in one visit. When you request service, text us a photo of the leak or the wet area; it often tells us which parts to bring.
Plumbing repairs are $175 per hour plus parts and travel. Most leaks are found and fixed in one to two hours.
Full rates →A pump that cycles with no faucet open is losing pressure somewhere: a leaking fitting, a dripping toilet valve, a failed check valve in the pump, or a cracked line from a freeze. We pressure-test the system and find it.
Usually, yes. We trace the line, open the smallest access needed, and repair it. We tell you up front if the water damage around it needs a separate repair.
Yes. We carry common pump models and can replace most pumps in one visit.
Yes. Freeze damage usually shows up as cracked fittings, split PEX and a damaged water heater bypass. We find every split and repair them, then pressure-test so you are not chasing leaks all season.
Usually a loose or cracked fitting on the faucet supply lines or a leaking P-trap on the drain side. Both are quick repairs. Turn off the pump and city water, dry the cabinet, and call us.
The check valve inside the city-water inlet has failed. It is a small part and a common freeze casualty; we replace the inlet or the valve.
Yes. Low pressure is usually a failing pump, a clogged inlet strainer, a bad pressure regulator or a kinked line. We test each and fix the cause.
Yes. Toilet water valves, seals and flange leaks are common repairs. Dump valve replacement is quoted after inspection.
In an RV, yes. The floor is thin plywood over foam and the walls are luan; a drip you can ignore in a house will soften an RV floor in one season.
Yes. Combining a plumbing repair with winterization or de-winterization on the same visit saves you a second trip charge.
No hot water, leaks, bypass and control faults
No hot water, a leaking tank, or a heater that only works on one mode. We diagnose elements, thermostats, boards, igniters and bypass valves and repair or replace what failed.
RV Water Heater Repair detailsProtect the plumbing before the first freeze
A New England freeze will split fittings, crack the water heater and destroy the pump. We winterize the RV where it is parked and bring it back to life in spring.
RV Winterization detailsEvidence your adjuster can use
Storm, tree, water or collision damage? We inspect the RV, photograph and measure everything, and write the itemized estimate your insurance claim needs.
RV Damage Inspections & Estimates detailsWe provide RV plumbing repair throughout our service area, including:
Ready when you are
Call or text with the year, make, model and where the RV sits. Send photos if you have them. You'll talk to the technician, not a call center.